I felt it before I saw it. Lying flat on the board, three strokes, a push from behind and I pop up …not too much weight forward or I face plant. Not too much weight back or I lose the wave. Center, knees bent, momentarily weightless, worriless, timeless.
One might look at the surfers on TV and think “I could do that.” One might think I’ll try it once then go back to my real life.
Alas neither is true.
Surfing is definitely not as easy as it appears. Nor is it a once a done situation. It’s far more addictive. Like the pull of a long lost love. The one that got away. But with each wave you get that one last chance you always longed to have.
As with any of my adventures I search for the lesson. There are many with surfing. A few that float to the surface include:
Wait for it: It’s that everlasting lesson I must learn over and over again. Patience. I see a few beautiful waves and with each one I have a strong desire to jump up and ride. But I hear the voice of my instructor in my head even though he is probably on the beach waxing a board at the present moment. It says “Wait for it” The waves keep coming. There is always another. If you ride every wave you lose energy rapidly. Many creative entrepreneurs are drawn by the ‘next wave’, drawn by the new experience, the promise of something unique, different. But with experience comes the ability to discern the true opportunity from the mirage.
Feel it vs think it: As a beginner surfer you find yourself starting to learn about the waves and you take on this pseudo expert status. If you look at the waves you see a certain size, you can perhaps see two close together and realize that means they aren’t as powerful and you should wait for the bigger one that inevitably follows. These are important points to consider. But they pale in comparison to the ability to still yourself and feel the wave from above and especially from below. In surfing, and in business, the logic is important, however the ability to attune to the reality of your surroundings and the feel of the situation is what will differentiate you. Your instinct will carry you through when in doubt.
Embrace the fall: With each missed wave. With each tumble under the surface. With each slip, error, fall, etc…you make a choice. Do I give up and swim to shore? Or do I try again? You can ask yourself…what did I learn? What did I learn never to try again?? How can I use this information to change my life or another’s for the better? The quality of the answer is dependent up on the quality of the question.
“We ourselves feel that what we are doing is just a drop in the ocean. But the ocean would be less because of that missing drop.” ~ Mother Teresa
Action Step: As you traverse your path think about the effect you have…the impact your ‘drop’ in the ocean has on the world. And more importantly the effect your drop, your thoughts, your actions, and the world has on everything you touch.
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